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What Does Deleting a 2011–2019 6.7 Powerstroke Diesel Mean?

“Deleting” a modern 6.7L Powerstroke means removing or disabling all of its emissions hardware (EGR, DPF, DOC, SCR, DEF systems) and loading an ECU tune to ignore those components. Many owners go for a delete to cut down on problems with emissions parts like the EGR and DPF.

Advantages: Improved throttle response, higher horsepower/torque, better fuel efficiency, and fewer DPF/EGR maintenance headaches.

Disadvantages: A deleted truck will fail emissions tests and void warranties. Federal law prohibits on-road use of tampered emissions equipment, meaning your truck will not pass smog checks. Expect higher NOx pollution, potential fines, and a reduced resale market.

For more basic information on diesel deletes, see here.

Key Emissions Parts Removed in a Full 2011–2019 Powerstroke Delete

A complete delete strips out every major emissions component. Typical full-delete packages include hardware to remove or bypass the:

EGR System: Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and cooler.

DPF/DOC: The Diesel Particulate Filter and associated Diesel Oxidation Catalyst.

SCR/DEF: The Selective Catalytic Reduction catalyst and Diesel Exhaust Fluid (urea) system (tank, pump, injector).

All Sensors: NOx and pressure sensors related to these systems.

In practice, the DPF is replaced with a straight “delete pipe” (often 4″ or 5″ diameter), and the SCR/DEF plumbing is removed or plugged. In contrast, some owners could simply leave the old hardware in place and disable it via tuning, but that is not recommended: parts like the EGR cooler will clog or corrode over time even if disabled.

Best practice: physically remove the EGR valve and cooler and install block-off plates, swap the factory exhaust (DPF/DOC) for a delete pipe, and eliminate the DEF and SCR components. This ensures no emissions flow or codes, and avoids future failures of the old parts.

Recommended Order for Deleting a 2011–2019 Powerstroke

A logical sequence can help prevent engine codes or limp mode. A common approach is:

  1. Pre-Tune the ECU: Before unplugging everything, upload your delete tune to the truck’s ECM. This tells the computer not to expect the deleted sensors (EGR, DPF regen, DEF) and prevents fault codes. Owners must reprogram the ECM to prevent error codes and limp mode rather than simply deleting the hardware.
  2. Remove EGR Components: With the engine off, remove or disconnect the EGR valve and cooler. Install the provided block-off plates or reroute coolant lines. This reduces intake deposits right away.
  3. Remove DPF/DOC: Disconnect the factory exhaust where the DPF begins. Install the DPF delete race pipe or downpipe-back exhaust (often a 4″ or 5″ stainless tube). Make sure the pipe is properly clamped or welded and that no sensors are left unplugged.
  4. Eliminate SCR/DEF: Remove the DEF tank and lines. Delete or plug the NOx/urea sensors. Some sellers sell kits include blanks or harnesses to replace these sensors.
  5. Finalize and Test: Double-check all electrical connectors are dealt with (either plugged out or taped). Start the engine and verify no emissions-related lights are on. Monitor gauges, like coolant temp, EGT, to ensure everything runs smoothly.

In practice, the precise order is flexible, but tuning first is wise to avoid codes, and tune afterward is often used to fine‐tune the calibration.

Step-by-Step Delete Procedures for 11-19 6.7 Powerstroke

ECU Tuning (Essential)

Before the emissions hardware is gone, you must tune the engine. The new tune disables EGR flow, DPF regen events, and DEF injection in software. Without a tune, you’ll trigger check-engine lights or limp mode immediately. A high-quality tuner, like EZ Lynk, H&S MiniMaxx, SCT/BDX or similar is recommended. Proper tuning optimizes fuel delivery and timing for the deletion, prevents CELs, and keeps EGTs in check. Owners often do a “pre-tune” on the stock engine first, then load the final delete tune after hardware removal. Many tuners also sell pre-loaded delete tunes.

DPF/DOC/Muffler Delete

The DPF delete pipe is the core of the exhaust deletion. This replaces the factory exhaust from the up-pipe all the way to a simple downpipe. Most kits offer a 4″ or 5″ stainless exhaust pipe to replace the DPF/DOC/muffler. By installing the straight pipe, you eliminate soot-trapping devices and lower backpressure. This unlocks quicker turbo spool and prevents any future DPF regen cycles. Make sure to bolt or weld the new pipe securely, and attach any included clamps or O2 sensor plugs. Some delete bundles also include optional mufflers or resonators if you want a quieter exhaust.

EGR Delete

On a 6.7 Powerstroke, the EGR valve and cooler sit on the exhaust and intake manifold. To delete them, remove the EGR valve and its coolant hoses and the EGR cooler unit. Install the metal block-off plates and any coolant reroute kits included in your kit. The deleted setup reduces carbon deposits in the intake manifold and also cylinders, which improves airflow and engine longevity. After removing EGR, many owners install a coolant bypass to stabilize the cooling system, since the EGR cooler no longer circulates coolant. Once the EGR parts are physically gone, your tune will eliminate the EGR command entirely.

DIY vs. Professional Delete – Cost and Considerations

DIY Deletion

You can perform the delete yourself if you have decent mechanical skills. DIY saves on labor, you only pay for parts. A typical full-delete kit (pipe, block-offs, tuner) will cost roughly $1,000–$2,000 depending on brands and options. Buying parts through retailers like Tuner Depot, EngineGo, DieselDudes, etc. is straightforward. Note you’ll also need basic tools and perhaps a scanner to verify codes. DIY risks include incorrect installation or missing a step, which could cause overheating or codes. If you DIY, follow the kit instructions carefully.

Costs: Expect to spend around $500–$800 on the tuner, plus $400-$600 for the delete pipe and hardware. In total, a DIY delete kit for a 2011-2019 Powerstroke often runs $1,500–$2,000 (or more for premium brands).

Professional Installation

Paying a mechanic adds labor costs but reduces risk. A competent diesel shop may charge $500-$1,000 for an emissions delete install. With parts included, expect $2,000-$4,000+ total for a shop delete. Price varies by location and whether you choose premium tuners or exhaust components. An advantage of a shop is warranty on their work and no worries about doing it wrong.

Who Should DIY vs. Hire

If you are mechanically confident and mostly want to save money, DIY can be a good choice cause you’ll primarily pay for parts. If you lack tools or experience with diesel engines, the extra labor cost of a shop is worth it to ensure reliability, but the final result should be the same.

Staying Legal

It’s important to remember that deleting emissions parts is illegal for road use in the U.S.. Federal law prohibits tampering with a vehicle’s pollution controls, and states will fail your truck in a smog test if the DPF, EGR, or SCR equipment is missing or disabled. Delete kits are sold for off-road or racing use only. This means you should only run a deleted truck on private property, race tracks, or other non-emissions-enforced environments. In most states it’s a misdemeanor to operate a tampered diesel on public roads, and inspectors can levy fines if your truck fails an OBD-II scan. Even if you never get tested, selling a deleted truck can be tricky because it will not be road legal. Always check your local and state laws before deleting any emissions equipment.


FAQ

Q: Is a partial delete (EGR only or DPF only) sufficient?

A: You can delete just one emissions system, such as the EGR or the DPF, but you’ll still need a tune to prevent check engine lights and regen attempts. Leaving other systems in place means they can still fail or trigger codes. For example, doing an EGR-only delete still leaves the DPF and DEF systems to deal with separately. Likewise, removing the DPF (either by replacing it with a straight pipe or gutting the filter core inside the original housing) without tuning the ECM will still cause regeneration cycles and associated fault codes. For the cleanest, most trouble-free result, most owners who commit to deleting go for a full hardware removal with matching tunes.

Q: What upgrades should I consider after a delete?

A: It’s wise to add an exhaust gas temperature gauge or pyrometer, since EGTs often rise after deleting EGR/DPF. Monitoring EGTs will protect your turbo and engine. Also consider coolant reroute kits or upgraded hoses, as some trucks experience slight cooling changes without the EGR cooler. In many installs people upgrade to a performance intake or a high-flow intercooler at the same time. The tune itself is crucial; properly dialing in the engine makes the delete safe and effective.

Q: Can I return my truck to stock later?

A: Technically yes, but it can be expensive. You would need to reinstall the OEM EGR cooler/valve, DPF, DEF tank, and recalibrate the ECM. Many deleted owners report that finding and fitting the factory parts again (plus paying for a reflash back to stock calibrations) can cost nearly as much as the delete itself. In short, plan to keep it deleted or be ready for a large repair bill to revert.

Q: Where can I buy a 2011–2019 Powerstroke delete kit, and how much do kits cost?

A: There are many online suppliers. Tuner Depot and EngineGo both sell complete delete kits tailored for 6.7L Powerstrokes. Diesel-specific retailers like Diesel Dudes and Diesel Patriots also offer bundles, including pipes, tunes, etc. As noted above, a full kit (pipe + EGR plates + tuner) typically runs $1,000–$2,000. Tuners alone cost $600–$900, and delete pipes about $400–$600, so budget accordingly. DIY kits often save several hundred dollars over buying components separately.

Q: What kind of performance gains can I expect?

A: Gains are modest but real. A properly tuned delete generally adds about 5–15 HP and a couple mpg in fuel economy. Exact gains depend on your setup like exhaust size, injectors, etc and how clogged the original parts were. Deletes mainly improve throttle response and turbo spool more than huge peak horsepower. Most owners report smoother turbo response and a cleaner exhaust sound as the noticeable changes.